How do I get my bathroom ready for tiling?
In a series of posts, I’ll cover all you need to know to tackle your bathroom makeover. After the bathroom demolition, we’ll talk about how to get ready for the remodel in this post.
Where do you go from here? I explained how to lay tiles step by step.
Please scrub the toilet.
o Cover up any protruding nails or screws in the wall.
Any remaining demolition material on the floor should be vacuumed up.
o, Look for signs of water damage or decaying wood in any exposed framing. If the framing needs fixing, do so.
o Make sure all visible framing is level. The tiling and the bathtub can be damaged by out-of-square framing. If the framing needs fixing, do so.
Set up a bathing facility.
o Place the bathtub where you want it, and make sure it’s level by sliding it into position. If the bathtub isn’t sitting flush, use plastic shims to raise it. After the bathtub has been leveled, the top of the nailing flange should be marked.
After removing the bathtub, a 2×4 ledger board should be attached to the wall studs. Once the tub is installed, it will sit on the ledger boards.
o The bottom of specific bathtubs needs to be supported by a thin set. Create a sturdy foundation for the tub by applying a thin set like you would tile. If you want to avoid damaging your new tub, read and follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
o Check the tub’s levelness after setting it on the ledger board and, if necessary, the thin set. Adjust the ledger boards and thin set to make the bathtub level.
Join the drain lines and install the stopper.
o Fasten the nailing flange to the studs in the framework. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Get the tiled shower’s exterior ready.
Where the shower tile will be put, the frame studs should be left visible. It’s essential to fix the framing if it needs fixing.
o If any construction dust is in the tub, vacuum it out.
Use drop cloths to avoid damaging the tub.
The studs and the backer boards need to be separated by a vapor barrier. You might utilize asphalt-felt roofing paper or plastic sheathing as a vapor barrier. Put staples through the felt paper and into the framing studs. The felt paper should overlap by a vertical of 6-8 inches and a horizontal of 2-4 inches.
The felt paper must extend beyond the nailing flange on the tub.
Silicone sealant should be used to fill the space between the felt paper and the nailing flange of the bathtub.
Press the felt paper down onto the sealant on the nailing flange to make a tight seal.
Cement backer boards should be pre-cut to fit the space around the tub. The backer board must be raised a quarter of an inch above the tub deck.
o Calculate and make a mark where the pipes will be removed. Use a carbide hole saw to make the holes. The holes should be a quarter of an inch more significant than the pipes.
o Use corrosion-resistant screws, as the manufacturer recommends, to fasten the backer boards to the studs.
Seam tape designed for backer boards should be used to tape the seams. Any hardware or home improvement store should carry this tape. Cement backer board adhesive can be found near drywall or tile supplies at most hardware stores. Mix the thin-set mortar as directed by the manufacturer.
Put mortar on top of the tape and wait 24 hours for it to dry.
Get the floor ready for tiling.
The cement backer boards should be cut ahead of time to fit the floor plan.
o Make sure the backer boards will fit by dry-fitting them first. Backing boards should have a 1/8-inch space between them, and the space between the wall and the tub should be 1/4 inch.
o Get rid of the support beams.
o Using a notched trowel, spread a thin layer of mortar (about 1/8 of an inch thick) onto the subfloor. The thin-set requires the backer boards to be pressed down firmly. To properly mix mortar, do what the package instructs.
o Begin inside the chamber and move to the edges as you exit. Thinset mortar should be applied to the floor in proportion to the size of the backer board you will be installing. Don’t cut the backing board into tiny pieces.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for fastening the backer board to the subfloor with corrosion-resistant screws.
Seam tape designed for backer boards should be used to tape the seams.
After waiting 24 hours, apply a thin mortar set over the tape and smooth it out.
Walls and ceilings should be primed and painted.
Use joint compound to fix any holes in the drywall.
Prime the ceiling as well as the walls.
Do some wall and ceiling painting.
o I like to paint now because there is no risk of getting paint on the freshly laid tile. Painting is an additional option that can be completed later if desired.
You can start tiling now. The renovation of the bathroom is currently at the halfway point.
Make sure everything is done right by checking it twice. If you ever feel unsafe, it’s best to back off and get help from an expert. Never violate state or federal regulations when constructing anything.
Remodeling your bathroom with Excel Builders is a great way to bring it up to date and give it a fresh look.
We are the best bathroom remodeling contractor in Minneapolis and the surrounding area. Thus, we design and construct bathrooms from scratch. Get in touch with Excel Builders to have your bathroom renovated in a stylish and functional way. Rest assured; we will approach your bathroom redesign with originality, inventiveness, and professionalism.
To learn more about what we can do for you and to see photos of completed projects, check out our website at http://excelbuildersmn.com.
Bathroom and kitchen remodeling and additions are among Excel Builders’ specialties. Their service area encompasses Minneapolis and its suburbs, including Minnetonka, Edina, Chanhassen, Chaska, Victoria, Eden Prairie, and Plymouth.
If you’re ready to take the next step in making your dream home a reality, give us a call now.